Oct 18, 2017

Hate fest on my brake!

9 comments

So like all things mechanical (which I will not take sht from) my back brake decided to be a 12 yr old girl. New olives and hose, la la la still sucked and slipped and leaked of all insults leaked. A new slave and yes leaked, actual visual tears of anti-freeze. So another cross over new olives and lube and tighten until I thought striping was about 1/4 turn away, and finally no leak. Braking still sucked. Re-grind the rim and still sucked. On close inspection my pads were worn not just unevenly but in a strange sort of Humpty-Dumpty shape. So I dragged them in to work, and re-squared them on a milling machine, as though new just less material, and bada-bing all is well. Sheesha

Oct 18, 2017

Maguras are a pain... easiest way to deal with them in my mind- get a complete 2005 system, only run Maggie oil... take time to set them up properly once, you won't have to touch them for a year or so. I've just got some racingline slaves which I am only expecting to give me problems, I have confidence in the trialtech lever as all their products are great..

Oct 19, 2017

Yes agree totally! My first set on oil came with my first bike a good aging Metta VTT and did very well. Then on my Koxx Kloud 2014 with our North East winters I went to antifreeze/water and "upgraded" to racing line levers and masters keeping the maggy slaves. All has not been perfect since, however holding for 3 rides now , a whole 3 rides!

Oct 24, 2017

Experiment, now that my slaves are no longer leaking, its to the lever. I have been using Super-lube synthetic grease on my Racing-line master cylinders/pistons (just a little wipe on the O-rings). No great shakes pretty good overall performance. However over time the grease gums up a bit and the lever feel gets sluggish. Remedy, clean re-lube all set. This time I am trying a dry Teflon Mclube, after cleaning and drying all parts, I sprayed on 2 coats. I have also changed my normal 50/50 anti-freeze/water to 20/80. Lever feels great first ride will be after all this rain passes, I'll share results and how it plays out over a little time. I know its a real nail biter.

Oct 24, 2017

try brake system pure silicone lube (next time) it comes in little single serving packages.

Oct 25, 2017

Awesome thanks, it will be a taste test, still raining here......

Oct 26, 2017

Bizarre, I've been using my Magura 2005 for maybe 5-8 years? Never bled, never leaked. Mind you I don't ride much if at all anymore.

Oct 26, 2017

This could be the secret, Maguras from 2005 were a fine year and they age well especially if undisturbed. I bet they are also running mineral oil, which is tough to use here in the north east winter. I'm here in coastal CT we can actually ride all year as the snow melts pretty quickly but leaves us with cold temps that monkey with the viscosity of the oil. I bet my old Metta VTT, which I believe lives in the Philadelphia area now, has never had its brake bled. Long live mineral oil and warm riding temps.

Oct 27, 2017Edited: Oct 30, 2017

the real secret may be that while heavier and not such a nice firm lever feel Vee brakes seem to be more powerful and work in near any temperature or atmospheric pressure. haha. plus they are super easy to maintain and fix (although dedication to getting the pads as near perfectly aligned- square, parallel,centered,... - as possible is essential to getting the full potential out of 'em. I am back to Vee brakes because I'm tired of bleeding and fixing carbon whatever maguras with their 6 month service life which shortens every service so I've been doing my front brake once a week for a while right after I'd just freshened up the rear! end rant. I'm still using the green tnn pads they're awesome

Nov 3, 2017

I just got my MT6 next working good after a hose shortening and a three bleeds. I used a bleed kit I off amazon and filled the syringe with twice as much or more fluid (mineral) as needed in the system. The procedure that finally worked for me was pushing the fluid back and forth between top and bottom syringe until all the bubbles were worked out. Then I forced most of the fluid to the bottom (caliper) syringe, removed the lever side syringe, pushed a little fluid up, and capped the top bleed hole wet. Then I turned the bike upside down and removed the lower syringe and capped that on fluid. Came out rock solid finally.

New Posts
  • Wondering if anyone has researched and or successfully converted some sort of non trials mtb 26" frame to a streety trials bike. Something with a long-ish top tube, 0drop bb or so, short stays, low front end like 60-80mm fork and rear disc.
  • I purchased a heatsink tensioner for my Hex, replacing the Trialtech two wheeled tensioner I have been using for years. I now have more chain than I would like hanging down. I am a half link away from being able to shorten any further and would like to use a half link. This is where it gets confusing, I have never done this before and have read on every chain description on Tartybikes that the split link that comes with every chain sold is not recommended for trials use. There are no alternatives given. I have read that people just push a link pin out enough to remove the required links and push the partially removed pin back in. This makes me uncomfortable. If I was to use a half link I would have to do this twice or, I would have to use two split links which is not recommended for trials use by Tartybikes to put the chain together. Both options sound sketchy to me. Can someone with experiential knowledge and experience please explain how I can use a half link without compromising the chains integrity so I won't worry about my chain snapping on every drop?! Split link image provided for those who may not know what it is.
  • I have the clean t13 v2 brake lever with echo calipers. I can't get the pistons to retract consistently. I've bled them several times, lubed and exercised the pistons but still can't get them to work right. Has anyone else had this issue? Thanks for the help!

© 2017 by BikeTrials.com