Dec 12, 2018

Your Complete Guide to Trials Riding: street augmented edition


Edited: Dec 12, 2018

Hi all,

I guess this qualifies in the beginners' section more than the media thread. Back in 2012, I had released a handbook covering all the techniques of trials riding, mostly seen from a natural/comp perspective. Now, after about three years of riding street trials to figure out what all the cool moves were about, and revamping my website with extra street sections, it was time I'd put up together a revised edition of my book.

Hence with the extra street chapters, the book has grown up from 240 pages to 288 pages in a A5 format (210x148mm portrait).


A neat feature I am also quite pleased about, I managed to integrate QR codes onto the how-to pages for a direct access to relevant slow-motion videos (via any smartphone QR scanner app)

Check it out on




New Posts
  • Mustache, Jim Cochrane (aka cockmaster), Spaceman and I all trekked southwest about 5 hours to enjoy a slippery June Comp and camping at the Candy Town Motorcycle Club near Hershey PA. The weather was humid and rainy but great fun and laughs were enjoyed by all. Joe’s Bike Shop provided generous schwag bags, mother nature and Devin H provided the rest. We managed to get to Candy Town MCC in time to assist with a little section prep and camp set up. Mustache, who doesn’t ride trials, made this great vid for us and I think it is a good representation of the Sport sections and just generally a fun comp. Incidentally Mustache also showed us that non water proof cameras can hold a hell of a lot of water and still operate, as he found his camera hanging on the tent side literally filled with water Sunday AM. After pouring the water out of the battery bay he continued to shoot this vid.
  • Cockpit upgrade. Not satisfied to leave well enough alone, I decided to "upgrade" the cockpit to a more modern geometry. So the move is from a 128mm X 30 stem to a 148mm X 30. My original stem is a Try-all welded clamp (photo 1) style stem and riser bars. It takes a little patience to remove the bars without scratching the crap out of them. This I do by reversing the clamp bolts and slip in a push plate (photos 2). tighten the clamp bolts from the under side against the plate, but be sure to tighten them evenly so as not to over-expand just one side and risk yielding the aluminum. All went well, on the bar removal. I put Ti bolts in the Tryall stem for the bar and steering tube clamps when new, I really only do this because they rust up so bad from sweat and now (3 years later they cam out easy as can be. The new Echo CNC stem came with Ti bolts and a fancy angular cut adapter in case your steering tube is cut square. Mine is cut at an angle and the current spaces stack was about a millimeter too short. So in two tries I was able to hack up some carbon scrap tubing and make a quickie slightly longer spacer. Now I can get the needed compression from the cap keep the head set tight. I greased all the Ti bolts as supplied by Echo and assembled the stem, steering tube and bar clamps. Rotated the bar to their original position, as JJ recommends, to align the up sweep with the stem angle (photo 5) and put the brake clamps back in their original position as well. The brakes I marked on the bar prior to removal. I snugged all the clamp bolts going from bolt to bolt like a bumble bee so as to torque evenly. Grips were slipped back on with a little alcohol which I am hoping will be dry by this afternoon. Probably won't do much for my riding but it's always fun to tinker. Shameless plug for Web-cyclery and Ross for the stem. Thanks Post what your up to

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